Yes, New York Fashion Week is over and we are now onto seeing what’s hot for spring in London, then Milan, then Paris, and then all over the world. I won’t be oversees to report from the sidelines of the runways, so before my spring 2014 forecasts end for now, there are a few indie designers that were featured at this NYFW that you need to know now…or at least by the time spring comes.
AURELIO COSTARELLA
This was the opening designer for the Australian showcase of designers at NYFW called Fashion Palette. It’s always one of my favorite shows to attend because it’s like you get a half dozen shows in one. Most of the designers in this showcase this year really shined in their evening wear. It’s no wonder why they’ve gone international and appeared on celebs oversees like Rihanna and Dita Von Teese. What Costarella did best was silk chiffon gowns and even one that was made of heavy beaded gold sequins that were red carpet ready.
ET AL
Et Al was another stand out designer featured in the FPNY show because while we saw a lot of intricately detailed evening wear in addition to colorful sportswear, this designer made pieces that fashionistas actually attending fashion week would run out to buy for themselves—though, you can be the judge if a lace button down will be a favorite of men. Layers of black over black were anything but dull and the over-sized leather backpacks rivaled those of Alexander Wang.
STEVEN KHALIL
If there’s one new name in evening wear to remember, it should be Steven Khalil. As each design came out, it was as if we were watching the Emmy’s best dressed. From navy sequins forming a swirled pattern on a gown, to what looked like a demure beaded long sleeved floor length dress but revealed a daring open back to even a red lace and corseted silk number that looked conservative yet modern, there were a lot to choose from. The wedding gowns mimicked these classic evening designs, but the long sleeve ruffled chiffon would make for the dreamiest of weddings.
photo by Elvia Gobbo
DANIEL JENNINGS
While the pro’s were all showing off their spring 2014 collections at Lincoln Center, so were a handful of lucky aspiring designers from the Art Institute of New York. Of the young talents that presented, Daniel Jennings stood out from the pack with his avant garde take on draping and tromp l’oeil effects like this trench that’s not quite a jacket but is something that even pro’s don’t attempt to do—and succeed in like Jennings did.
LUKE AARON
I’ve been following Luke Aaron for the past few seasons and have become a big fan of this Yale-educated costume designer turned fashion darling of New England. He’s known for his beautiful and often dramatic, yet always wearable, evening wear, though this season his separates stood out for me. As his first presentation in New York Fashion Week, he chose quite the perfect setting of the library at the SoHo House, where his preppy looks fit in quite well. With a color palette of reds, whites, blues, greys and khakis, this was an all American collection. The culottes, full skirts and his signature draping tops were some expected favorites, but I overheard nearly everyone go gaga over his edgier cropped jackets. This young designer is definitely one you’re going to be seeing more of.
DEIVIE
I met the designer Christina Mannino when she presented her 60’s style Lana Del Ray meets Russian style fall collection at an event a few months ago and knew of all the up-and-coming designers there, Deivie was the one to watch. For her spring collection, “Heart on the Line,” it was like watching a school girl that was a bit 60’s and even more 90’s, break the hearts of every skater boy and hard core kid. With love notes about not caring “how much acid you’re on” scribbled in silk on dresses and the perfect styling of Doc Martins, crop tops mixed with a bit of preppy gingham, this was a style mash-up that even those abhorring the resurgence of the 90’s could get on board with.
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